Calypso (1949)

Calypso was introduced by Robert Piguet in 1949, at a moment when the world was emerging from the shadows of war and embracing a renewed fascination with beauty, travel, romance, and exotic destinations. Although Robert Piguet himself was already celebrated as one of Paris's most influential couturiers, his reputation extended far beyond fashion. Born in Yverdon, Switzerland, in 1901, Piguet established his couture house in Paris in 1928 and quickly became known for his refined elegance, understated luxury, and remarkable eye for talent. Among the future fashion legends who trained under him were Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain, Marc Bohan, and James Galanos. While his couture house shaped the course of twentieth-century fashion, his fragrances—including Bandit, Fracas, Visa, Baghari, and Calypso—would ultimately secure his place among the most respected names in French perfumery.

The name Calypso was a particularly evocative and romantic choice. Derived from ancient Greek mythology, Calypso was the beautiful sea nymph who dwelled upon the enchanted island of Ogygia. According to Homer's Odyssey, she rescued the shipwrecked hero Ulysses (Odysseus) and fell deeply in love with him, holding him on her idyllic island for seven years with promises of love, pleasure, and even immortality. The name itself comes from the Greek word kalyptō, meaning "to conceal," "to hide," or "to envelop." In English, Calypso is pronounced kuh-LIP-soh, while in French it is often pronounced kah-LEEP-so. The name carries a lyrical musicality that sounds both elegant and exotic, perfectly suited to a perfume intended to transport the wearer into a world of fantasy and enchantment.

The word Calypso would have carried another important association for many people in 1949: music and dance. Calypso music originated in Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean, evolving from African, French, and Creole musical traditions. Characterized by lively rhythms, witty lyrics, and infectious melodies, calypso songs were traditionally performed at festivals and carnivals. During the 1930s and 1940s, calypso music began attracting international attention, and by the late 1940s it was increasingly associated with tropical islands, carefree living, sunshine, and exotic adventure. While the great calypso craze of the United States would not fully arrive until the 1950s with performers such as Harry Belafonte, the word "Calypso" already evoked images of Caribbean music, dancing, and warm island nights. To many consumers, the name therefore suggested not only the mythological sea nymph but also the rhythm, vitality, and romance of tropical culture.

To anyone hearing the name in 1949, Calypso would immediately conjure visions of sun-drenched islands, turquoise waters, swaying palms, tropical flowers, warm ocean breezes, and hidden lagoons. It suggested a place removed from everyday life—a paradise where time slowed, responsibilities disappeared, and pleasure reigned supreme. The name carried a dreamlike quality filled with mystery, romance, and irresistible temptation. Robert Piguet's own advertising perfectly captured this imagery, describing the fragrance as being inspired by "the enchanting myth of the nymph Calypso, whose love captivated Ulysses," and promising visions of "distant, blessed islands and the dreamlike perfumes that drift upon their exotic breezes."

This imagery resonated deeply with the cultural mood of the late 1940s. The war had ended only four years earlier, and much of Europe was still rebuilding. Yet optimism was returning. Commercial aviation was expanding, international travel was becoming increasingly attainable, and luxury industries were experiencing a revival. Fashion was entering what is often called the Golden Age of Couture. Christian Dior's revolutionary New Look, introduced in 1947, had transformed women's fashion with cinched waists, full skirts, and a renewed emphasis on femininity and glamour. Women who had spent years dressing practically during wartime eagerly embraced luxurious fabrics, elegant silhouettes, and a return to romance. The same longing for beauty and escapism influenced perfumery, leading to a resurgence of rich florals, exotic orientals, and fragrances inspired by distant lands.

Within this cultural climate, a perfume named Calypso would have held tremendous appeal. It represented an escape from ordinary life and an invitation to dream. The name suggested a woman who was alluring, mysterious, and captivating. Like the mythical nymph herself, she possessed a beauty that was both gentle and powerful. At the same time, the association with Caribbean music and dance added a sense of movement, joy, and sensual vitality. Wearing Calypso allowed a woman to imagine herself transported to an enchanted island surrounded by flowers, sunshine, music, and endless horizons.

Interpreted in scent, the word Calypso naturally suggests a balance between freshness and sensuality. One imagines sparkling citrus fruits carried on ocean breezes, lush tropical blossoms blooming beneath brilliant sunlight, and warm spices drifting from distant markets. The fragrance's classification as a spicy floral perfectly supports this imagery. The floral elements evoke exotic blossoms growing in a secluded paradise, while the spices introduce warmth, mystery, and seduction. Together, these facets create the impression of a fragrance that is both refreshing and passionate, innocent and alluring, much like the mythical figure who inspired it.

From a perfumery perspective, Calypso occupied an interesting position within the marketplace of the late 1940s. Exotic themes were certainly fashionable during this period. The interwar years and immediate postwar era had already seen the popularity of fragrances inspired by distant cultures, tropical destinations, and oriental fantasies. Consumers were fascinated by perfumes that transported them beyond the familiar. In this respect, Calypso participated in a broader trend toward romantic escapism and exotic storytelling.

Yet Calypso also possessed qualities that distinguished it from many of its contemporaries. Whereas some exotic perfumes emphasized dense orientals, heavy spices, or overt sensuality, Calypso's advertising emphasized harmony between freshness and passion. The mythological inspiration gave the fragrance an intellectual and romantic dimension beyond simple tropical fantasy. Rather than presenting an abstract exotic dream, Calypso drew upon one of the most enduring love stories in classical literature while simultaneously tapping into contemporary fascination with Caribbean music, travel, and island culture.

In many ways, Calypso perfectly captured the spirit of 1949. It embodied a world rediscovering optimism, romance, adventure, and the pleasures of life after years of hardship. Through its mythological inspiration, musical associations, tropical imagery, and promise of distant paradise, the fragrance invited women to dream of horizons beyond their own. Whether experienced as a perfume or imagined through its evocative name, Calypso offered a fragrant voyage to an enchanted island where beauty, passion, music, and fantasy existed in perfect harmony.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Calypso is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women. It was described as "sophisticated, pungent, spicy."

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, fruity note, Algerian narcissus, green accord, Egyptian geranium
• Middle notes: peony, Indian carnation, Aleppo pepper, Jamaican allspice, Zanzibar clove, gardenia, Bulgarian rose, Grasse rose centifolia, Grasse jasmine, Florentine orris root 
• Base notes: Indonesian nutmeg, Sichuan cinnamon, Mysore sandalwood, Tyrolean oakmoss, resins, Ethiopian civet, Penang patchouli, ambergris, amber and suede accord

Scent Profile:

Calypso unfolds like a voyage to a mythical island at sunset, where tropical flowers bloom among spice-laden breezes and every corner of the landscape seems touched by both romance and mystery. True to Robert Piguet's description of the fragrance as "sophisticated, pungent, spicy," Calypso is not a soft floral daydream. It possesses a vibrant, almost theatrical richness that evokes the enchanted island of the sea nymph herself—a place overflowing with exotic blossoms, rare spices, and hidden sensuality.

The opening is dazzling and luminous. Calabrian bergamot immediately sparkles across the skin like golden sunlight dancing upon turquoise water. Bergamot from Calabria, on Italy's southern coast, is considered the finest in the world because the region's unique climate produces fruit with exceptional floral complexity and elegance. Unlike ordinary citrus oils, Calabrian bergamot combines notes of lemon peel, sweet orange, aromatic herbs, and delicate flowers. Alongside it comes Sicilian mandarin, sweeter and softer than bergamot, bursting with the aroma of freshly peeled fruit still warm from the Mediterranean sun. Sicilian mandarins are prized for their sweetness and natural radiance, lacking the sharper bitterness found in many other citrus varieties.

A mysterious fruity note soon emerges, suggesting ripe tropical fruits carried on ocean breezes. Such fruity accords were often created through carefully blended aroma chemicals because many fruits cannot yield usable essential oils. Materials such as gamma-undecalactone (peach-like), aldehydes, and fruity esters create juicy, succulent effects that nature alone cannot provide. These molecules lend the fragrance an impression of nectar dripping from sun-ripened fruit without overwhelming the composition with sweetness.

Then comes one of the fragrance's most intriguing notes: Algerian narcissus. Narcissus absolute is among perfumery's most unusual floral materials. Harvested from wild-growing flowers in North Africa, it smells intensely green, floral, earthy, and slightly animalic. There is a haunting quality to narcissus, as though fresh-cut hay, wildflowers, damp earth, and honey were woven together. Algerian narcissus is especially prized for its richness and natural depth, bringing an untamed wilderness quality that perfectly suits Calypso's exotic theme.

A vivid green accord introduces the sensation of crushed leaves, stems, and lush tropical vegetation. Such accords are usually constructed through synthetic materials because no single natural ingredient smells exactly like "greenery." Molecules such as cis-3-hexenol, often called "leaf alcohol," reproduce the smell of freshly broken leaves and cut grass. These materials amplify the realism of natural ingredients and create the illusion of dense foliage surrounding a hidden island paradise.

Egyptian geranium provides a fresh floral bridge into the heart. Geranium grown along the Nile possesses a brighter, rosier character than many other varieties. It smells simultaneously floral, minty, citrusy, and slightly green. Its rosy freshness links the sparkling opening to the rich floral bouquet that follows while preventing the fragrance from becoming overly sweet.

The heart of Calypso unfolds like a tropical garden illuminated by golden afternoon sunlight. Peony introduces a delicate, airy floralcy. True peony does not yield an extract suitable for perfumery, so perfumers create the illusion using modern aroma chemicals. These materials capture the flower's dewy freshness, rosy brightness, and translucent elegance. The synthetic reconstruction often smells more beautiful and expressive than the actual flower itself, creating an idealized version of peony in bloom.

Indian carnation adds one of the fragrance's defining spicy facets. Carnation possesses a remarkable scent profile that combines flower petals with clove spice. Historically, carnation accords relied heavily upon eugenol-rich materials derived from clove oil. Modern aroma chemicals enhance and refine this spicy-floral duality, creating the impression of crimson carnation petals dusted with cinnamon and pepper.

The spice market of Calypso comes fully alive through Aleppo pepper, Jamaican allspice, and Zanzibar clove. Aleppo pepper contributes a warm, aromatic heat that feels softer and more nuanced than black pepper. Jamaican allspice, often called pimento, is fascinating because it naturally smells like a blend of clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, and pepper all at once. Its scent creates remarkable depth and complexity. Zanzibar clove, harvested from the spice-rich islands off East Africa, has long been regarded as one of the world's finest clove varieties. Its aroma is rich, warm, medicinal, and deeply exotic, lending the fragrance a sensual warmth reminiscent of spice bazaars and tropical ports.

Gardenia contributes creamy tropical opulence. Like peony, gardenia cannot be distilled into an essential oil, so perfumers rely upon sophisticated accords to recreate its fragrance. These accords combine creamy lactones, jasmine materials, and green floral molecules to evoke velvety white petals radiating beneath tropical moonlight.

The rose accord is particularly luxurious. Bulgarian rose, cultivated in the famed Valley of Roses, contributes honeyed richness, soft spice, and remarkable depth. Beside it stands Grasse rose centifolia, harvested in the historic perfume capital of France. Centifolia possesses a softer, more delicate character than Bulgarian rose, with nuances of honey, raspberry, and fresh petals. Together they create a rose accord of extraordinary complexity, balancing richness with refinement.

Grasse jasmine adds another layer of sensuality. Jasmine from Grasse has historically been regarded as among the most exquisite floral materials in perfumery, possessing notes of honey, apricot, tea, and warm skin. Modern jasmine accords are often enhanced with hedione, a synthetic molecule famous for its luminous, transparent jasmine effect. Hedione acts almost like sunlight filtering through petals, expanding the fragrance and allowing the natural jasmine to bloom more fully.

Florentine orris root provides one of perfumery's most luxurious ingredients. Derived from iris rhizomes aged for several years before extraction, orris possesses a scent unlike any flower. It is powdery, buttery, velvety, and cool, suggesting violets, suede, and precious cosmetic powders. Florentine orris from Italy has long been considered the benchmark for quality, lending elegance and sophistication to the heart.

As Calypso settles, the fragrance becomes warmer, darker, and more seductive. Indonesian nutmeg introduces an aromatic sweetness with facets of warm wood and spice. The Indonesian climate produces nutmeg of remarkable richness and complexity. Sichuan cinnamon contributes a distinctive character different from traditional cinnamon bark. It combines sweetness, warmth, and a faintly peppery brightness that keeps the spice accord lively and vibrant.

Mysore sandalwood forms the creamy heart of the base. Genuine sandalwood from Mysore, India, is legendary in perfumery for its unparalleled smoothness. Unlike Australian or New Caledonian varieties, Mysore sandalwood possesses a uniquely rich aroma of warm milk, polished wood, soft spice, and sacred incense. Today, genuine Mysore sandalwood is extraordinarily rare, making it one of the most treasured ingredients in fragrance history.

Tyrolean oakmoss contributes the shadowy foundation of the composition. Harvested from oak trees in the Austrian Alps, oakmoss smells damp, earthy, woody, and slightly salty. It evokes ancient forests, moss-covered stones, and cool mountain air. This material anchors the fragrance firmly within the chypre tradition while creating the illusion of hidden groves deep within Calypso's mythical island.

The resin accord adds golden warmth and mystery. Resins such as labdanum, benzoin, and opoponax create rich balsamic effects reminiscent of incense, amber, honey, and sun-warmed wood. These materials help smooth the transition between the floral heart and animalic base while enhancing the fragrance's longevity.

One of the most provocative elements is Ethiopian civet. Historically derived from the civet cat, natural civet possesses a complex scent that transforms dramatically when diluted. Rather than smelling unpleasant, it contributes warmth, sensuality, and a remarkably lifelike skin effect. Modern perfumery typically recreates civet through synthetic molecules, preserving its seductive qualities without relying on animal-derived materials. These synthetic recreations often provide greater consistency while retaining the intimate warmth that made civet legendary.

Penang patchouli from Malaysia contributes earthy depth and richness. Patchouli from this region possesses an especially smooth character, combining damp earth, dark chocolate, woods, and subtle sweetness. It grounds the fragrance and extends its longevity without overwhelming the floral and spicy elements.

Ambergris introduces one of perfumery's most mysterious notes. Historically produced within sperm whales and found floating in the ocean after years of aging, ambergris possesses a scent that combines salty sea air, warm skin, tobacco, sunlight, and mineral warmth. Modern fragrances use sophisticated synthetic substitutes such as ambroxan, which recreate ambergris' radiant, diffusive qualities. Ambroxan adds a glowing, almost skin-like aura that allows the entire fragrance to project beautifully.

Finally, the amber and suede accord wraps everything in golden warmth. Amber itself is not a natural extract but a perfumer's accord typically built from labdanum, benzoin, vanilla materials, and modern aroma chemicals. It contributes richness, sweetness, and glow. The suede accord, also entirely constructed through perfumery artistry, softens the sharper leather facets into something supple and luxurious, like fine gloves resting against warm skin.

The result is a fragrance that feels perfectly suited to its mythological namesake. Calypso is both exotic and refined, tropical yet sophisticated, fresh yet deeply sensual. It evokes an enchanted island where rare flowers bloom beside spice trees, where sea breezes mingle with incense and sandalwood, and where every breath carries the promise of romance, mystery, and adventure.

Paris Personal, 1963:

"This is a very piquant perfume, and terribly sexy," she explains. "At first contact, it is too screaming and violent. However, it assimilates so well that in a few minutes you think it had been born in the skin. "Calypso by Piguet," she goes on."

L'Art et la Mode, 1965:

"Faithful to Robert Piguet's tradition of creating perfumes that reflected the spirit of their time, he introduced Calypso, a fragrance as alluring as its name. This newest creation combines fresh and passionate notes in perfect harmony. Inspired by the enchanting myth of the nymph Calypso, whose love captivated Ulysses, it conjures visions of distant, blessed islands and the dreamlike perfumes that drift upon their exotic breezes."

Bottles:

The bottles were made by Pochet et du Courval in France. 

Calypso Parfum in the clear crystal bottle was available in: 

• 1/8 oz Purse size mini
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 2.25"tall
• 1/2 oz - bottle stands 2.5" tall (Ref # 570)
• 1 oz - bottle stands 3 3/8” tall (Ref # 5700)
• 2 oz bottle stands 4.25" tall

Calypso Eau de Toilette was available in two sizes:

• 2 oz
• 4 oz

Fate of the Fragrance:

Like the other fragrances in the Robert Piguet collection, Calypso passed through several ownership and distribution changes during its lifetime, and these transitions can help collectors identify and date surviving bottles. During the 1950s, Robert Piguet fragrances in the United States were owned and distributed by the John Robert Powers Products Company. As a result, bottles and boxes from this period may bear both the Robert Piguet and John Robert Powers names. For collectors, these markings are useful indicators of a fragrance originating from the postwar era, when Piguet's perfumes were still being marketed as prestigious French luxury imports.

A significant change occurred in 1960 when famed aviator, entrepreneur, and cosmetics executive Jacqueline Cochran became the American distributor for Robert Piguet perfumes. Under Cochran's stewardship, the fragrances continued to be sold through select department stores and specialty retailers, often with packaging that emphasized the Robert Piguet name rather than the distributor. Bottles and boxes from the 1960s and 1970s frequently display only the Robert Piguet Parfums branding, giving them a cleaner and more streamlined appearance than some earlier examples.

Unlike Fracas and Bandit, which survived through numerous revivals and reformulations, Calypso gradually disappeared from the marketplace. Although it enjoyed popularity during the late 1940s, 1950s, and into the 1960s, the fragrance appears to have been discontinued sometime during the 1970s. As tastes shifted and the Robert Piguet fragrance portfolio underwent periods of changing ownership and reduced distribution, Calypso quietly faded from the catalog. By the time the major revivals of the Robert Piguet house began in the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries, Calypso was not among the fragrances selected for relaunch.

Today, Calypso remains one of the lost treasures of the original Robert Piguet collection. Unlike Fracas, Bandit, Baghari, and Visa, which have all been reintroduced in modern form, Calypso survives primarily through vintage bottles, advertisements, and contemporary descriptions. This rarity has made original examples especially desirable among collectors of vintage perfumery, who regard the fragrance as a fascinating artifact of the postwar era—a perfume that perfectly captured the romance, optimism, and fascination with exotic destinations that characterized the late 1940s and 1950s.

2010 Version:

When Robert Piguet's Baghari was revived in 2010, the task of recreating this elegant classic was entrusted to perfumer Aurélien Guichard. Originally launched in 1950, Baghari had long been admired for its refined aldehydic floral structure, a style that represented the height of Parisian sophistication during the mid-twentieth century. Guichard's objective was not to reinvent the fragrance for modern tastes, but rather to restore it as faithfully as possible to the feminine original while ensuring that it could be produced using contemporary materials and manufacturing standards. The result was widely praised for preserving the graceful character of the vintage perfume: luminous aldehydes, elegant florals, soft woods, and a warm, velvety base.

However, even as Guichard sought to recreate the original composition, he was working within a perfumery landscape dramatically different from that of 1950. Many natural materials that had been used freely during the golden age of perfumery had become scarce, prohibitively expensive, environmentally restricted, or subject to safety regulations. As a result, the 2010 version of Baghari was already a careful reconstruction rather than a literal duplication of the original formula.

It is likely that between 2010 and 2012, Baghari underwent further adjustments to comply with standards established by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). IFRA does not ban fragrances outright but regulates the use levels of specific ingredients that may cause skin sensitization or allergic reactions in some individuals. During this period, many classic fragrances from nearly every major perfume house were reformulated to meet increasingly stringent requirements, particularly those affecting traditional floral, chypre, and oriental compositions.

One of the ingredients most likely affected in Baghari was oakmoss. Although modern Baghari is less oakmoss-driven than a traditional chypre, vintage formulations almost certainly relied on oakmoss to provide depth, elegance, and subtle mossy warmth beneath the floral structure. Oakmoss naturally contains compounds known as atranol and chloroatranol, which became heavily restricted under IFRA guidelines. Modern perfumers can still use specially processed low-atranol oakmoss extracts, but these materials generally lack some of the dark, forest-like richness and complexity found in older formulations. Consequently, modern Baghari may feel cleaner, brighter, and more transparent than its vintage counterpart.

Certain floral materials likely required modification as well. Jasmine and rose absolutes naturally contain trace allergenic compounds that became subject to concentration limits. While these flowers remain central to perfumery, modern formulations often rebalance their proportions or supplement them with synthetic aroma chemicals. For example, jasmine may be enhanced with hedione, a luminous molecule that smells like jasmine petals illuminated by sunlight. Hedione adds radiance and diffusion without altering the fragrance's essential floral character. Similarly, rose accords may be reinforced with modern rose molecules to maintain richness while remaining within regulatory limits.

The carnation-like spicy nuances often present in classic floral perfumes may also have been affected. Traditional carnation accords rely heavily upon eugenol and isoeugenol, naturally occurring compounds found in clove oil. Because these materials became increasingly restricted, modern perfumers frequently reconstruct carnation effects using alternative molecules. As a result, contemporary floral compositions often appear smoother and less overtly spicy than their vintage predecessors.

Natural musk materials had already disappeared from mainstream perfumery decades before Baghari's relaunch. Historically, fragrances of Baghari's era often relied upon animal-derived musks to create warmth, softness, and sensuality. By 2010, these materials had long been replaced by sophisticated synthetic musks. Modern musks tend to be cleaner, more transparent, and more diffusive than the animalic musks of the mid-twentieth century. They provide a silky softness that helps maintain elegance while allowing the floral notes to remain prominent.

If the vintage formula contained traces of animalic materials such as civet or castoreum—common in many luxury fragrances of the period—these would almost certainly have been replaced with synthetic equivalents. Modern recreations of civet and castoreum can successfully reproduce much of the warmth, depth, and sensuality of the originals while avoiding ethical concerns and regulatory complications. Nevertheless, they often feel smoother and less overtly animalic than historical versions.

The aldehydes that play such an important role in Baghari's signature character were largely unaffected by IFRA restrictions. These sparkling molecules are responsible for the fragrance's luminous, champagne-like opening. Aldehydes create the sensation of fresh air, polished silk, and glowing light around the floral bouquet. Because they remain relatively unrestricted, they continue to provide modern Baghari with much of the elegance that distinguished the original perfume.

The cumulative effect of these regulatory adjustments is subtle but noticeable. Vintage Baghari was likely richer, denser, and slightly more textured, with deeper mossy undertones and a more pronounced warmth in the base. The modern version retains the fragrance's essential identity but presents it through a brighter, cleaner, and more transparent lens. The florals appear more radiant, the aldehydes more sparkling, and the overall structure more streamlined. Rather than the plush elegance of a mid-century couture gown, the contemporary Baghari feels like a beautifully tailored modern interpretation of that same garment.

Despite the inevitable compromises imposed by modern regulations, the current Baghari remains one of the most successful revivals within the Robert Piguet collection. Aurélien Guichard's recreation preserved the fragrance's sophisticated aldehydic floral heart while carefully adapting it to twenty-first-century standards. Although collectors fortunate enough to experience vintage bottles may notice differences in depth and complexity, the modern version still captures the timeless grace, refinement, and understated luxury that made Baghari one of Robert Piguet's most enduring creations.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Calypso is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: geranium, mandarin orange
• Middle notes: orris root, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose
• Base notes: patchouli, amber, suede, musk

Scent Profile:

The newest incarnation of Calypso is a floral oriental fragrance that feels less like a literal tropical island and more like the memory of one recalled through the lens of vintage Parisian elegance. While the original 1949 composition was a richly spiced floral tapestry, the modern version distills that spirit into something softer, more luminous, and more romantic. It unfolds like a silk scarf warmed by the sun, carrying traces of flowers, precious woods, fine leather gloves, and skin scented with amber.

The fragrance opens with Egyptian-style geranium and mandarin orange, a pairing that immediately creates a sensation of brightness tinged with sophistication. Geranium is one of perfumery's most fascinating ingredients because it bridges the worlds of flowers, herbs, and citrus. The finest geranium oils traditionally come from Egypt, where the hot, dry climate produces plants with a particularly rosy and radiant character. As you smell it, there is the impression of freshly crushed green leaves stained with morning dew, intertwined with rose petals and a faint hint of mint. It is simultaneously fresh and floral, lending the opening an elegant sharpness. Alongside it comes mandarin orange, whose cheerful sweetness softens geranium's green edges. Unlike the sharper sparkle of bergamot or lemon, mandarin smells rounder and more succulent, like peeling a perfectly ripe fruit and releasing a spray of fragrant oils into warm air. Modern mandarin notes are often enhanced with carefully selected citrus molecules that amplify the fruit's juicy, sunlit quality while preserving its natural freshness.

As the opening settles, the heart reveals itself through one of perfumery's most luxurious ingredients: orris root. Despite being associated with the iris flower, orris is not obtained from the blossoms themselves. Instead, it is extracted from the aged rhizomes of iris plants, which must often mature for three to five years before developing their prized fragrance. The finest orris has traditionally come from Florence, Italy, where generations of cultivation have produced roots renowned for their exceptional quality. Smelling true orris is unlike smelling any flower. It possesses a cool, velvety texture suggestive of violet petals, cosmetic powder, suede gloves, and polished marble. There is a buttery smoothness to it, almost as if the scent itself has weight and texture. Modern perfumers often support natural orris with synthetic ionones, remarkable aroma molecules that smell of violets, iris petals, and cool woods. These synthetics not only reinforce the expensive natural material but expand its diffusion, creating an ethereal halo that natural orris alone cannot achieve.

The rose accord forms the emotional heart of Calypso. Here, two of the world's most celebrated rose varieties meet in harmonious balance. Bulgarian rose, cultivated in the famed Valley of Roses, has long been regarded as one of perfumery's finest materials. Its aroma is deep and multifaceted, combining fresh petals with honey, soft spice, citrus, and subtle fruit. It possesses an almost glowing richness that makes it instantly recognizable. Turkish rose, harvested primarily around Isparta, offers a slightly different personality. It is brighter, more vibrant, and often exhibits a fresher, greener profile than its Bulgarian counterpart. Together they create a rose accord that feels both luxurious and alive, balancing opulence with freshness. Modern rose compositions are often enhanced with molecules such as phenethyl alcohol and rose oxides, which amplify the flower's freshness, radiance, and projection. These synthetics do not replace the natural rose but illuminate it, much like sunlight shining through stained glass.

As Calypso reaches its drydown, the fragrance gradually transforms into something warmer and more intimate. Patchouli emerges first, bringing a dark, earthy richness. The finest patchouli traditionally comes from Indonesia, where the tropical climate produces leaves rich in aromatic oils. True patchouli is far more sophisticated than its reputation sometimes suggests. It smells of damp earth after rain, polished woods, dark cocoa, and aged books, with a subtle sweetness lurking beneath the surface. Modern patchouli fractions allow perfumers to isolate its smoothest facets, removing some of the rougher camphoraceous notes while preserving its depth and elegance.

Amber follows, wrapping the composition in a golden glow. Amber is not a naturally occurring extract but rather a perfumer's accord, traditionally built from materials such as labdanum, benzoin, vanilla notes, and warm balsamic resins. The result is a scent that feels simultaneously warm, resinous, sweet, and radiant. Modern amber accords often incorporate sophisticated aroma chemicals such as ambroxan, which contributes an ambergris-like radiance. Ambroxan smells warm, mineralic, slightly salty, and skin-like, creating a luminous aura that seems to glow from within the fragrance rather than sit on its surface.

One of the most intriguing elements of the base is the suede accord. Leather and suede cannot be extracted from actual leather; they must be created entirely through perfumery artistry. Modern suede accords are composed from carefully balanced synthetic materials that recreate the sensation of soft, supple leather rather than the harsher smell of saddlery. The result is luxurious and tactile, evoking the feel of fine kid gloves, expensive handbags, and the interior of a couture atelier. In Calypso, the suede note softens the floral heart, lending it a sensual elegance that feels unmistakably vintage yet contemporary.

Finally, musk settles over everything like the warmth of skin. Natural deer musk has not been used in mainstream perfumery for decades, so modern musks are entirely synthetic. Far from being compromises, these materials have become some of perfumery's most versatile tools. Depending on the molecules chosen, musk can smell clean and airy, warm and skin-like, or soft and powdery. In Calypso, it serves as the invisible thread that ties the entire fragrance together. It enhances the velvety texture of the orris, deepens the roses, softens the suede, and allows the amber to glow long after the flowers have faded.

The overall effect is one of refined sensuality. The modern Calypso no longer evokes the lush spice markets and tropical gardens of the original 1949 formula quite so literally. Instead, it captures the spirit of that mythological paradise through a more elegant and contemporary lens. The fragrance feels like an evening breeze drifting through a Mediterranean villa overlooking the sea, carrying with it the scent of roses, powdered iris, warm leather, amber-lit rooms, and skin still touched by the sun. It is romantic, sophisticated, and quietly seductive—a modern interpretation of the enchantment that inspired its legendary name.

Bottle:

It is available today as 50ml and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

Casbah (2012)

Casbah, introduced by Parfums Robert Piguet in 2012, was created by perfumer Aurelien Guichard as a spicy oriental fragrance designed for both men and women. To understand the inspiration behind Casbah, it is helpful to first understand the legacy of Robert Piguet himself. Robert Piguet (1898–1953) was a celebrated French couturier whose influence extended far beyond fashion. Known as the mentor to future design legends such as Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, and Hubert de Givenchy, Piguet cultivated a reputation for elegance, innovation, and impeccable taste. His fragrances became equally renowned, particularly Bandit (1944), Fracas (1948), and Visa (1945), perfumes that helped define twentieth-century perfumery and remain benchmarks within their respective genres. Today, the revived Parfums Robert Piguet house continues to honor this heritage by creating fragrances that balance historical sophistication with modern artistry.

The name "Casbah" was chosen to evoke a world of mystery, adventure, and exotic beauty. The word is derived from the Arabic term qasbah (قصبة), referring to a fortified citadel or the oldest walled quarter of a North African city. It is commonly pronounced "KAZ-bah." Historically, a casbah was often the elevated stronghold of a city, containing palaces, markets, and labyrinthine streets protected behind ancient walls. Over time, the word entered Western imagination as a symbol of North African romance and intrigue, conjuring visions of winding alleyways, colorful souks, hidden courtyards, carved cedar doors, mosaic fountains, and the intoxicating scent of spices carried through warm desert air.

Emotionally, the word "Casbah" suggests mystery, sensuality, discovery, and escape. It evokes the allure of distant lands and secret places waiting to be explored. One imagines bustling marketplaces overflowing with saffron, cumin, pepper, tobacco, incense, and dried fruits; merchants draped in flowing robes; lanterns casting golden light across ancient stone walls; and the distant sound of music drifting through the evening air. The name invites the wearer on a journey, transforming fragrance into an experience of travel and imagination rather than simply a scent.

When Casbah was launched in 2012, the fragrance industry was in the midst of a significant transition. The late 2000s and early 2010s saw niche perfumery achieve unprecedented popularity. Consumers were increasingly seeking fragrances that felt distinctive, artistic, and transportive rather than merely fashionable. There was growing interest in exotic destinations, cultural storytelling, rare raw materials, and fragrances that evoked specific places or experiences. Oriental fragrances, incense compositions, woods, spices, and smoky accords were particularly fashionable among niche perfume enthusiasts. At the same time, luxury fashion embraced global influences, with Moroccan-inspired interiors, ethnic textiles, embroidered caftans, artisan craftsmanship, and bohemian luxury becoming increasingly visible in both design and fashion. The period was characterized by a desire for authenticity, escapism, and sensory exploration.

Women encountering Casbah in 2012 would likely have interpreted it as sophisticated, worldly, and adventurous. Unlike many mainstream feminine fragrances of the era, which often emphasized sweet fruits, sugary gourmand notes, or sparkling florals, Casbah promised something more enigmatic. The name suggested confidence and individuality rather than overt sweetness. It appealed to women who imagined themselves as travelers, collectors of experiences, and lovers of culture and art. The fragrance's Moroccan theme offered a romantic escape from everyday life, allowing the wearer to imagine wandering through the ancient streets of Marrakech beneath a sky glowing with desert sunset colors.

As a scent concept, the word "Casbah" naturally lends itself to warm spices, aromatic woods, incense, tobacco, precious resins, and mysterious smoky nuances. Even before smelling the perfume, one anticipates a fragrance rich with texture and atmosphere. The name suggests contrasts between sunlit market stalls and cool stone courtyards, between vibrant spices and ancient cedarwood, between sacred incense smoke and the earthy dryness of desert landscapes. It is less about a literal representation of Morocco and more about capturing an idealized vision of North African exoticism through fragrance.

Aurelien Guichard translated this vision into a perfume that reflects both elegance and intrigue. According to contemporary press materials, Casbah invites the wearer on a "magic carpet ride to Morocco," presenting a fragrant journey through the souks of Marrakech. The composition unfolds as a tapestry of spices, woods, tobacco, iris, incense, and vetiver, balancing refinement with exotic character. Rather than overwhelming the wearer with heaviness, Guichard crafted a fragrance that maintains the polished sophistication expected of the Robert Piguet name while still delivering the sense of mystery implied by its title.

In the context of the fragrance market of 2012, Casbah was both timely and distinctive. It emerged during a period when niche perfumery was embracing incense, spices, woods, and exotic geographic inspirations, particularly those drawn from North Africa and the Middle East. While its Moroccan theme aligned with contemporary trends, Casbah avoided the dense oud-heavy, amber-saturated style that dominated many luxury releases of the era. Instead, Aurelien Guichard crafted a composition that was more refined, atmospheric, and elegant, using iris, angelica root, tobacco, cedarwood, and incense to create a fragrance that felt sophisticated rather than overwhelming. 

In many ways, Casbah shares a similar aesthetic with the fragrances of the Comme des Garçons Incense Series, particularly Ouarzazate, Avignon, and Jaisalmer. Like Ouarzazate, it evokes the spice-laden air and sun-warmed landscapes of North Africa; like Avignon, it explores the meditative, smoky beauty of incense; and like Jaisalmer, it balances woods and spices with a sense of dry, contemplative elegance. However, whereas the Comme des Garçons fragrances often present these themes in a stark, avant-garde, almost abstract manner, Casbah filters them through the polished and luxurious lens of Robert Piguet. The result is a fragrance that feels less like an artistic study of incense and place, and more like a romanticized journey through Marrakech's ancient souks—rich in atmosphere, mystery, and sophistication while remaining unmistakably French in its restraint and refinement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Casbah is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for both men and women. 

• Top notes: angelica root, nutmeg and black pepper
• Middle notes: incense, tobacco leaves and orris root
• Base notes: vetiver and cedar

Scent Profile:

Casbah unfolds like stepping through the ancient gates of Marrakech at dusk, where the heat of the day still lingers in the stone walls and the air is alive with the mingled aromas of spice merchants, incense sellers, and cedar chests filled with treasured goods. The fragrance opens with the unusual and captivating scent of angelica root, one of perfumery's most enigmatic materials. Native to northern Europe and traditionally cultivated in France, Germany, and parts of Eastern Europe, angelica root possesses an aroma unlike almost any other botanical used in perfumery. Its scent is earthy and green, yet simultaneously aromatic, peppery, musky, and slightly herbal, evoking freshly dug roots still clinging to cool soil. The essential oil is distilled from the root itself, producing a fragrance that feels both ancient and mysterious. 

Angelica's natural musk-like nuances are often enhanced by modern aroma molecules that amplify its earthy radiance and improve its longevity, creating a smoother and more luminous interpretation of the raw material. This unusual note is immediately warmed by nutmeg, traditionally sourced from Indonesia's Banda Islands and the Moluccas, historically known as the legendary Spice Islands. Indonesian nutmeg is prized for its richness and complexity, possessing a warm, sweet-spicy aroma with subtle woody, creamy, and slightly camphoraceous facets. Unlike the sharper spice profile of clove or cinnamon, nutmeg feels soft and rounded, wrapping the composition in a gentle warmth. 

Black pepper adds contrast, contributing a dry, sparkling heat that feels almost effervescent against the earthiness of angelica. The finest black pepper often comes from India's Malabar Coast, where centuries of cultivation produce peppercorns with exceptional aromatic depth. Its scent is not merely hot; it is woody, citrusy, smoky, and subtly floral. Modern perfumery frequently employs aroma chemicals such as peppery terpenes and woody spice molecules to enhance the natural essential oil, extending its brightness and preventing the volatile spice notes from disappearing too quickly. Together, angelica root, nutmeg, and black pepper create an opening that feels like wandering through a spice market where sacks of precious seasonings stand beside bundles of freshly harvested roots and herbs.

As the fragrance settles, the bustling marketplace gives way to quieter, more contemplative spaces hidden within the casbah's labyrinthine streets. Incense rises first, creating a veil of fragrant smoke that drifts through the composition like sunlight filtering through carved latticework. The term "incense" in perfumery often refers to olibanum, also known as frankincense, harvested from Boswellia trees growing in Oman, Somalia, and other regions of the Arabian Peninsula and East Africa. 

Omani frankincense is especially revered for its purity and exceptional aromatic complexity. Its scent combines bright lemony facets with resinous, balsamic warmth and a distinctly sacred smokiness that has been treasured in religious ceremonies for thousands of years. Modern perfumers frequently support natural frankincense with carefully selected incense molecules that amplify its smoky, mineral, and ethereal qualities, creating an effect that feels larger and more diffusive than the natural resin alone could provide. 

Interwoven with the incense is tobacco leaf, one of perfumery's most evocative and misunderstood notes. True tobacco absolute is extracted from cured tobacco leaves, yielding an aroma that bears little resemblance to cigarette smoke. Instead, it smells rich, sweet, honeyed, slightly fruity, and warmly leathery, with nuances of dried hay, dark tea, raisins, and sun-cured leaves. Because natural tobacco absolute can be heavy and difficult to work with, perfumers often enhance it using aroma chemicals such as ionones, coumarin derivatives, and tobacco-inspired accords that emphasize the material's sweet, leafy, and velvety facets. The tobacco in Casbah feels refined rather than rugged, lending a sense of quiet luxury. 

Nestled between the incense and tobacco is orris root, among the most expensive and prestigious ingredients in perfumery. Orris is derived not from the flower of the iris but from its rhizomes, which must be harvested and aged for several years before developing their fragrance. The finest orris traditionally comes from Florence and other regions of Tuscany, where generations of expertise have produced material prized for its exceptional quality. Its scent is breathtakingly elegant: powdery, buttery, violet-like, woody, and faintly earthy.

Natural orris contains irones, molecules responsible for its distinctive floral-powdery character. Modern synthetic irones allow perfumers to intensify these beautiful nuances while preserving precious natural material. In Casbah, the orris acts as a bridge between spice and smoke, softening the composition with an almost silken texture that transforms the rugged elements into something extraordinarily polished.

The base evokes the ancient architecture of the casbah itself, where sun-baked walls, carved cedar beams, and cool courtyards create a sense of permanence and serenity. Vetiver forms the foundation, bringing depth and structure to the fragrance. The finest perfumery vetiver is often sourced from Haiti, whose volcanic soil produces roots with a particularly elegant balance of earthiness, smokiness, and freshness. 

Haitian vetiver differs markedly from some other varieties, such as the darker, smokier vetiver from Java. Its scent recalls dry grasses, clean earth, driftwood, and mineral-rich soil warmed by the sun. Vetiver oil contains numerous naturally occurring aroma compounds that create remarkable complexity, but perfumers frequently enhance these qualities with synthetic woody molecules that amplify its clean, silky, and smoky facets. These modern materials allow the vetiver to project more effectively while maintaining its natural sophistication. 

Cedarwood provides the final architectural framework. Depending upon the source, cedarwood may be derived from Virginian cedar, Atlas cedar from Morocco, or other cedar species used in perfumery. Atlas cedar, particularly appropriate to Casbah's North African inspiration, possesses a dry, elegant aroma that combines pencil shavings, warm wood, faint leather nuances, and subtle balsamic sweetness. Modern cedar accords are often enriched with sophisticated woody molecules that magnify the smoothness, radiance, and longevity of the natural oil, creating an impression of polished timber glowing in the desert sun. 

Together, the cedar and vetiver create a silky, smoky foundation beneath the incense, tobacco, and spices, allowing Casbah to conclude not with overwhelming oriental richness, but with remarkable refinement. The result is a fragrance that feels like an imagined journey through Morocco's ancient citadels—a tapestry woven from spice stalls, sacred incense, precious woods, and cool stone passageways, rendered with the elegance and sophistication that define the Robert Piguet name.

Bottle:

Futur (1960)

Futur was introduced by Robert Piguet in 1960, during a period when the world seemed poised on the threshold of a dazzling new age. Although Robert Piguet himself had passed away in 1953, his name remained synonymous with Parisian elegance, innovation, and artistic refinement. Born in Switzerland in 1901, Piguet established his couture house in Paris in 1928 and became one of the most influential fashion figures of his generation. His greatest legacy lies not only in the celebrated designers he mentored—including Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain, Marc Bohan, and James Galanos—but also in the extraordinary perfumes that bore his name. Fragrances such as Bandit, Fracas, Visa, Baghari, and later Futur became enduring examples of French perfumery at its most sophisticated and imaginative.

The name Futur was a bold and remarkably modern choice. Derived from the French word futur, meaning "future," the name is pronounced approximately "foo-TYOOR" in French, though English speakers often simplify it to "foo-TUR." Unlike many perfumes named after flowers, jewels, romantic concepts, or exotic destinations, Futur looked forward rather than backward. The word itself evokes images of progress, possibility, innovation, and unexplored horizons. It conjures visions of gleaming skyscrapers, streamlined automobiles, jet aircraft, modern architecture, scientific breakthroughs, and a world transformed by technology. There is a sense of anticipation embedded within the name—a promise that tomorrow will be brighter, faster, and more exciting than today.

The timing of Futur's launch could hardly have been more appropriate. The year 1960 sits at the beginning of what historians often call the Space Age or the Atomic Age, a period characterized by extraordinary optimism about science, technology, and modern living. The Second World War had faded into memory, economies were booming, commercial jet travel was expanding rapidly, and humanity was preparing to venture beyond the Earth's atmosphere. The previous decade had introduced television, suburban living, and consumer prosperity on an unprecedented scale. In fashion, the elegant silhouettes of the 1950s were gradually giving way to cleaner, more youthful, and increasingly modern designs. Women were embracing lighter fabrics, simpler lines, and a growing sense of independence. Modernity itself had become fashionable.

image colorized and enhanced by Grace Hummel/Cleopatra's Boudoir.

This spirit of optimism profoundly influenced perfumery. During the late 1950s and early 1960s, fragrance houses increasingly embraced cleaner, brighter, and more abstract compositions. Advances in aroma chemistry allowed perfumers to create effects that had never existed before, producing fragrances that felt contemporary rather than nostalgic. Green notes, fresh florals, crisp aldehydes, and transparent woody accords began to appear more frequently, reflecting society's fascination with modern living. Perfumes no longer needed to evoke only opulent salons, powdered boudoirs, or romantic gardens; they could also evoke sleek modern architecture, fresh air, and the excitement of a rapidly changing world.

Women encountering a perfume called Futur in 1960 would likely have viewed it as a symbol of confidence and modern sophistication. Unlike names that suggested old-world glamour or traditional femininity, Futur spoke directly to women who embraced progress and looked ahead with optimism. It suggested a woman who was independent, worldly, and unafraid of change. She might travel by jet rather than ocean liner, wear contemporary fashions rather than traditional couture silhouettes, and see herself as part of an exciting new era. Wearing Futur was not simply about smelling beautiful; it was about participating in a vision of tomorrow.

Interpreted through scent, the name Futur becomes particularly intriguing. A floral green woody fragrance naturally embodies many of the qualities associated with the future. Green notes suggest growth, renewal, and vitality. Fresh citrus elements evoke clarity, brightness, and energy. Romantic flowers soften the composition with elegance and femininity, while opulent woods provide structure, sophistication, and longevity. Together, these elements create a fragrance that feels fresh and progressive while remaining deeply luxurious. Rather than presenting a futuristic world of cold metal and machinery, Futur imagined the future as harmonious—a place where nature, beauty, and modernity coexist.

The fragrance was created by the legendary Jean Carles, one of the most influential perfumers of the twentieth century. Carles was celebrated for his methodical approach to fragrance construction and for training generations of perfumers through what became known as the "Jean Carles Method." His work combined technical precision with artistic imagination, allowing him to create fragrances that were both beautifully balanced and emotionally compelling. Futur exemplified this philosophy, blending freshness, florals, woods, and sensuality into a composition that felt modern without sacrificing elegance.

One of the most fascinating aspects of vintage Futur was its use of Animalis, a celebrated specialty base created by Synarome. Animalis was not a single ingredient but a carefully constructed accord designed to reproduce the complexity of traditional animalic materials. It contained facets reminiscent of civet, musk, ambergris, castoreum, and costus root, all materials historically prized for their ability to impart warmth, sensuality, and extraordinary longevity. The aroma was rich, creamy, and subtly animalic, often described as possessing a fatty or buttery undertone that merged seamlessly with the wearer's skin. Rather than smelling overtly animalic, Animalis functioned almost like an invisible aura surrounding the perfume, amplifying its sensuality and creating an impression of living warmth beneath the floral and woody notes.

The effect of Animalis was particularly important in Futur because it prevented the green and floral elements from becoming too crisp or aloof. Beneath the fragrance's fresh and modern exterior lurked a deeply sensual foundation that made the perfume feel intimate and alluring. This duality—freshness on the surface, warmth beneath—gave Futur much of its distinctive character. Jean Carles clearly appreciated the versatility of Animalis, having also employed it in two other Robert Piguet masterpieces, Visa and Baghari. In all three fragrances, the base contributed a subtle but unmistakable sensual depth that helped distinguish them from many of their contemporaries.

Within the context of the marketplace, Futur occupied a fascinating position. It certainly reflected emerging trends toward fresher, greener, and more modern compositions that were becoming increasingly popular during the late 1950s and early 1960s. Its emphasis on freshness, floral elegance, and sophisticated woods aligned with the growing desire for fragrances that felt contemporary rather than overtly opulent. Yet Futur was not merely following fashion. The boldness of its name, the sophistication of its structure, and the unexpected sensuality provided by Animalis gave it a distinctive identity. While many fragrances of the period embraced freshness, few balanced modern green brightness with such a rich and seductive undercurrent.

In this respect, Futur perfectly captured the contradictions of its era. It celebrated progress and modernity while preserving the luxurious sensuality that had long defined fine French perfumery. It looked forward without abandoning the artistry of the past. More than six decades later, the name remains remarkably apt. Futur was not simply a perfume inspired by the future—it was a fragrance that sought to embody the optimism, elegance, and excitement of a world standing at the dawn of a new age.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Futur is classified as a floral green woody fragrance for women. The spring like perfume is described as having a blend of fresh citruses, romantic flowers and opulent woody nuances.

• Top notes: aldehyde, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian orange, Italian neroli, Paraguayan petitgrain, green accord, Comoros basil
• Middle notes: Turkish rose, Tuscan violet, Grasse jasmine, Manila ylang ylang, Central Asian tamarisk, Florentine orris
• Base notes: Omani frankincense, Siberian pine needle, Java vetiver, Penang patchouli, Virginian cedar, Balkans oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Synarome's Animalis base, amber, ambergris, Canadian castoreum, Abyssinian civet, Tonkin musk, Levantine costus

L'Art et la mode - Issues 2846-2848, 1968: 

"Robert Piguet Futur, last and magnificent creation of perfumes Piguet prelude holidays and multiplies the scents of summer. It detects the unusual smell of tamarisk associated with orange, jasmine, basil. Scent of happy idleness."

Scent Profile:

Futur opens like the first warm morning of spring after a long winter, when sunlight begins to filter through new leaves and the world seems filled with possibility. The fragrance immediately announces itself with a radiant burst of aldehydes, one of the most important synthetic innovations in twentieth-century perfumery. Aldehydes do not smell like any single natural material; rather, they create an abstract effect that can be sparkling, airy, metallic, waxy, or effervescent. In Futur, they shimmer above the composition like sunlight reflecting from polished chrome and glass, lending the fragrance a distinctly modern character perfectly suited to its futuristic name. They brighten every note that follows, making the citrus fruits seem juicier, the flowers more luminous, and the woods cleaner and more refined.

The citrus accord that follows is composed of some of the finest materials available to perfumery. Calabrian bergamot, cultivated along the southern coast of Italy, is considered the finest bergamot in the world. The region's unique climate produces an oil possessing an extraordinary balance of sparkling citrus freshness, delicate floral facets, aromatic herbs, and a subtle tea-like bitterness. It smells as though the rind of a perfectly ripe citrus fruit has just been twisted between the fingers, releasing a fine mist of fragrant oil into the air. Sicilian orange contributes a sweeter and more sunlit quality. The oranges grown in Sicily benefit from intense Mediterranean sunshine and volcanic soils, producing fruits with exceptional sweetness and aromatic richness. Their scent evokes freshly squeezed juice, golden flesh, and warm orange peels drying in the sun.

Italian neroli introduces an elegant floral dimension. Distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, neroli smells simultaneously floral, citrusy, green, and honeyed. The finest Italian neroli possesses an exquisite delicacy that distinguishes it from North African varieties, often displaying greater refinement and transparency. Paraguayan petitgrain, extracted from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, adds a crisp green bitterness that balances the sweetness of the citrus fruits. It smells of crushed leaves, young branches, and green citrus peel. Together, neroli and petitgrain create a beautiful contrast, one highlighting the blossoms and the other emphasizing the living tree itself.

The fragrance's green accord contributes significantly to its reputation as a floral-green masterpiece. Green accords are largely constructed through carefully blended aroma chemicals because no single natural material can produce the precise sensation perfumers seek. Molecules such as cis-3-hexenol and cis-3-hexenyl acetate create vivid impressions of freshly cut grass, crushed leaves, cucumber skin, and spring vegetation. These materials smell startlingly realistic, often more evocative than nature itself. Comoros basil introduces a fascinating aromatic freshness. Basil grown in the Comoros Islands develops a particularly rich and slightly spicy profile thanks to the islands' tropical climate. Its scent combines green herbs, anise, clove, and peppery nuances, lending Futur a vibrant freshness that feels alive and energetic.

As the opening settles, a magnificent floral heart emerges. Turkish rose forms the centerpiece, offering one of perfumery's most treasured floral materials. Roses cultivated in Turkey's famous rose-growing regions possess an extraordinary richness, combining velvety petals with hints of honey, fruit, spice, and fresh morning dew. Unlike some roses that can feel overly sweet, Turkish rose maintains a beautiful balance between opulence and freshness. Tuscan violet adds a soft romantic quality. True violet flower essence cannot be distilled in a meaningful way, so its fragrance is recreated using ionones, aroma chemicals originally discovered in the late nineteenth century. These molecules contribute the powdery, velvety, slightly woody character associated with violets while enhancing the natural floral notes throughout the composition. The result is an aroma that feels delicate, nostalgic, and irresistibly elegant.

Grasse jasmine contributes incomparable richness. Harvested by hand in the legendary flower fields surrounding Grasse, jasmine from this region possesses a complexity unmatched by most other varieties. It smells creamy, fruity, honeyed, and faintly animalic, with layers of depth that unfold gradually on the skin. Manila ylang-ylang adds a lush tropical warmth. Rich and creamy, it suggests banana blossoms, exotic flowers, warm skin, and golden sunlight. The ylang-ylang softens the sharper green elements while lending the floral bouquet an almost narcotic sensuality.

One of Futur's most intriguing notes is Central Asian tamarisk. This unusual material contributes an airy, windswept quality that is difficult to describe yet instantly recognizable. Tamarisk evokes dry branches, warm desert air, sun-bleached wood, and sparse vegetation thriving in harsh climates. It lends the fragrance an expansive quality, almost as if one were standing beneath an endless sky. Florentine orris follows with aristocratic elegance. Derived from the rhizomes of iris plants grown in Tuscany, genuine orris is among the most expensive materials in perfumery. The rhizomes must be aged for several years before they develop their characteristic aroma. The scent is exquisite: powdery, buttery, violet-like, woody, and faintly earthy. Modern perfumers often reinforce natural orris with synthetic irones, which enhance its creamy, velvety qualities while extending its longevity.

The base of Futur reveals its extraordinary sophistication. Omani frankincense introduces a luminous resinous quality unlike any other material. Considered the finest frankincense in the world, Omani frankincense possesses exceptional purity and complexity. It smells simultaneously lemony, balsamic, peppery, and spiritual, evoking ancient temples, desert caravans, and sacred rituals. Siberian pine needle contributes crisp evergreen freshness. The cold climate of Siberia produces pines rich in aromatic compounds, resulting in an oil that smells intensely fresh, resinous, and invigorating, like a walk through a snow-dusted forest.

Java vetiver adds depth and refinement. Compared to the cleaner, grassier Haitian variety, Javanese vetiver is darker, smokier, and earthier. It smells of roots, damp soil, aged wood, and faint wood smoke. Penang patchouli from Malaysia contributes smooth richness. This patchouli is prized for its refinement, offering notes of dark earth, cocoa, damp leaves, and polished woods without the roughness found in lesser grades. Virginian cedar introduces dry pencil-shaving nuances and aromatic woodiness, while genuine Mysore sandalwood provides one of perfumery's most luxurious textures. Harvested from India, Mysore sandalwood possesses a creamy, buttery smoothness unlike any other sandalwood species. It smells soft, milky, woody, and almost velvety.

Balkans oakmoss forms the classical chypre foundation. Harvested from moss growing on oak trees throughout southeastern Europe, it smells of damp forests, shaded bark, rich earth, and ancient stone walls covered in moss. Its cool, mysterious character anchors the brighter notes above it. Amber contributes warmth through a blend of resins, balsams, and synthetic amber materials. Since natural amber from fossilized resin has little scent, perfumers create amber accords using labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, and modern aroma chemicals that generate warmth, sweetness, and radiance.

The truly remarkable sensuality of vintage Futur, however, comes from its extraordinary animalic foundation. Ambergris contributes a unique marine warmth. Genuine ambergris, produced by sperm whales and aged by the sea, possesses an aroma that is salty, sweet, musky, mineralic, and subtly animalic. By the 1960s, natural ambergris was often supplemented by synthetic materials such as ambroxide, which intensified its radiance and longevity. Canadian castoreum introduces rich leather-like warmth, smelling of cured hides, smoke, birch tar, and worn leather gloves. Abyssinian civet contributes a soft animalic richness suggestive of warm skin and intimate sensuality. Tonkin musk, historically obtained from the musk deer, provided an incomparable warmth and diffusion. Modern perfumers often describe its effect as the scent of clean, warm skin magnified a hundredfold.

Levantine costus adds one of the most unusual elements in all of perfumery. Derived from the roots of a thistle-like plant native to the Levant, costus possesses an intensely animalic aroma often compared to warm fur, skin, and hair. While challenging on its own, in tiny amounts it adds astonishing realism and sensuality. It transforms flowers from decorative objects into something living and breathing.

Binding all these elements together is Synarome's legendary Animalis base, one of the secret weapons of twentieth-century perfumery. Animalis was a masterfully constructed specialty base containing facets of civet, musk, ambergris, castoreum, and costus. It smells warm, creamy, buttery, slightly leathery, and deeply sensual. Rather than announcing itself as an obvious note, Animalis functions as a hidden foundation beneath the fragrance, extending longevity while creating an aura of intimacy and warmth. The effect is almost magical. The fresh citruses, green leaves, and romantic flowers remain luminous and elegant, yet beneath them lies a subtle animal warmth that makes the perfume feel alive on the skin.

This contrast is what made vintage Futur so distinctive. On the surface it appeared modern, fresh, green, and optimistic—a fragrance perfectly suited to the Space Age optimism of 1960. Beneath that bright exterior, however, Jean Carles concealed an extraordinarily sophisticated animalic structure that gave the perfume depth, sensuality, and remarkable longevity. The result was not simply a floral-green fragrance, but a perfume that embodied the promise of the future while remaining profoundly human, romantic, and irresistibly seductive.

L'Art et la mode - Issues 2846-2848, 1968: "Robert Piguet Futur, last and magnificent creation of perfumes Piguet prelude holidays and multiplies the scents of summer. It detects the unusual smell of tamarisk associated with orange, jasmine, basil. Scent of happy idleness."

Bottles:

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Like many of the classic Robert Piguet fragrances, Futur eventually disappeared from the marketplace, although the exact date of its discontinuation remains uncertain. Throughout its lifetime, the fragrance passed through several owners, distributors, and corporate reorganizations that reflected the changing structure of the perfume industry during the second half of the twentieth century. For collectors today, these ownership changes provide valuable clues for dating bottles and packaging, as the names and addresses printed on labels often correspond to specific periods in the fragrance's history.

During the 1950s, Robert Piguet fragrances in the United States were owned and distributed by the John Robert Powers Products Company. Although Futur had not yet been launched, this company played an important role in maintaining the presence of the Robert Piguet fragrance collection in the American market following the couturier's death in 1953. Bottles and boxes from this era often display both the Robert Piguet and John Robert Powers names, making them readily identifiable to collectors. The company helped preserve the prestige of celebrated fragrances such as Fracas, Bandit, Baghari, and Visa, ensuring that the Robert Piguet name remained associated with luxury French perfumery.

A major transition occurred in 1960, the very year Futur was introduced. Distribution rights in the United States passed to Jacqueline Cochran, one of the most accomplished aviators of the twentieth century and a highly successful cosmetics entrepreneur. Cochran's association with beauty products and luxury fragrances brought renewed attention to the Robert Piguet line during a period of rapid cultural and technological change. It was under her stewardship that Futur entered the market, a fitting coincidence given the fragrance's modern, forward-looking identity and Cochran's own reputation as a pioneer who continually pushed boundaries. Bottles and packaging from this period were often simplified and typically featured only the "Robert Piguet Parfums" name. This presentation remained largely consistent throughout the 1960s and 1970s and continued until approximately 1982.

For many collectors, bottles produced during the Jacqueline Cochran years represent some of the most desirable examples of Futur. These editions are generally regarded as being closest to the original Jean Carles formula, retaining the rich natural materials and sophisticated animalic nuances that defined the fragrance's character. Vintage examples from this era frequently exhibit the lush green floral complexity and sensual depth created by the famous Animalis base, qualities that would become increasingly difficult to preserve as ingredient regulations and market demands evolved.

Another significant chapter began in 1982 when ownership of the Robert Piguet fragrance portfolio was acquired by Alfin, a company associated with Irwin Alfin and Adrien Arpel, Inc. Seeking to expand the commercial reach of the brand, Alfin pursued broader distribution and increased marketing efforts. In 1985, the company established Orinter Geneva Switzerland as a dedicated division responsible for managing Parfums Robert Piguet. Through Orinter, the company controlled the exclusive worldwide manufacturing, distribution, and licensing rights for several of the house's most famous fragrances, including Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, Baghari, and Musk Blanc. The company also worked to increase public awareness of other well-known Robert Piguet fragrances through more extensive commercial promotion.

The Alfin and Orinter years marked a period when many historic fragrances throughout the industry were being adapted for a changing marketplace. Rising raw material costs, shifting consumer preferences, and evolving regulatory requirements often resulted in reformulations designed to reduce production expenses or modernize a fragrance's character. While some consumers welcomed these changes, many collectors and fragrance enthusiasts believe that the richness and complexity of numerous classic perfumes suffered during this period. For a fragrance such as Futur, whose beauty depended upon an intricate balance of green notes, precious florals, woods, mosses, and animalic materials, even subtle modifications could significantly alter its personality.

The next major transition occurred in 1995 when the Robert Piguet brand was acquired by Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C). This acquisition marked the beginning of a broader revival of interest in Robert Piguet's historic perfume legacy. Rather than treating the brand simply as a commercial asset, FF&C recognized the extraordinary importance of the house within perfume history. The company gradually reintroduced several of Piguet's most celebrated classics while also commissioning new fragrances inspired by the elegance and artistic spirit that had defined the original creations.

Although Futur itself was not among the first fragrances revived during this period, the renewed focus on Robert Piguet's heritage helped preserve awareness of the fragrance among collectors and perfume historians. The acquisition by FF&C ensured that the house's legacy—including iconic creations such as Fracas, Bandit, Baghari, Visa, and Futur—would continue to be appreciated by new generations of fragrance enthusiasts. Today, surviving vintage bottles of Futur serve as reminders of a remarkable era in perfumery, when Jean Carles combined the optimism of the Space Age with the sensual artistry of classic French fragrance creation to produce one of Robert Piguet's most distinctive and memorable perfumes.

2009 Version:

After decades of relative obscurity, Futur returned to the spotlight in 2009 when Robert Piguet Parfums commissioned perfumer Aurélien Guichard to recreate the fragrance for a new generation of perfume lovers. Rather than simply producing a modern interpretation inspired by the original, Guichard's goal was to recapture the spirit, elegance, and distinctive character of Jean Carles' 1960 masterpiece. The relaunch reflected a growing appreciation for historic fragrances and a desire among collectors and enthusiasts to rediscover the legendary perfumes that had helped establish Robert Piguet's reputation as one of the great names in French perfumery. Initially, the fragrance was available exclusively through Harrods in London, a fitting choice given the department store's long-standing association with luxury, exclusivity, and some of the world's most prestigious perfume houses.

Aurélien Guichard was uniquely suited to the task. Coming from a family deeply connected to the perfume industry of Grasse, he possessed both a profound respect for classical perfumery and an understanding of modern fragrance construction. His challenge was formidable. The original Futur was created in an era when perfumers had access to materials that were either no longer available, prohibitively expensive, ethically problematic, or later restricted by industry regulations. Guichard therefore sought to recreate not merely the formula itself, but the emotional experience of the original fragrance. The resulting composition retained Futur's signature green freshness, elegant florals, refined woods, and sensual undertones while presenting them with greater clarity and transparency for contemporary tastes.

However, the 2009 version would not remain unchanged for long. Between approximately 2010 and 2012, Futur underwent another reformulation to comply with updated standards established by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Founded in 1973, IFRA is the industry's self-regulatory body responsible for establishing safety guidelines governing the use of fragrance ingredients. These standards are based upon toxicological and dermatological research and are designed to reduce the risk of allergic reactions, skin sensitization, phototoxicity, and other potential safety concerns. As scientific understanding evolved, IFRA periodically introduced new restrictions and concentration limits affecting many traditional perfume materials.

For a fragrance such as Futur, several of its most important historical ingredients would have been directly affected by these regulations. One of the most significant was oakmoss, a cornerstone of classical chypre and green fragrances. The original Futur relied upon rich Balkans oakmoss to provide its earthy, mossy, forest-like character. However, naturally occurring compounds within oakmoss, particularly atranol and chloroatranol, were identified as potential allergens. Modern regulations therefore required either highly purified forms of oakmoss with greatly reduced allergenic content or replacement with synthetic alternatives such as Evernyl and Veramoss. While these substitutes successfully recreate much of oakmoss's cool, woody, moss-covered character, many enthusiasts believe they lack some of the depth and complexity found in vintage formulas.

The fragrance's animalic foundation would have been even more dramatically affected. The original Futur contained numerous materials that are either restricted, unavailable, or no longer ethically acceptable for widespread commercial use. Genuine civet, historically obtained from the African civet cat, contributed a warm, skin-like sensuality. Natural Tonkin musk, once derived from the musk deer, added extraordinary diffusion and softness. Castoreum, traditionally obtained from the North American beaver, provided rich leather and smoky nuances. Costus root, a plant material prized for its intensely animalic, fur-like character, also became heavily restricted due to allergenic concerns. By the early twenty-first century, virtually all major perfume houses had replaced these materials with sophisticated synthetic recreations that replicate their olfactory effects while complying with modern ethical and safety standards.

Another area affected by IFRA regulations involved certain floral materials and essential oils containing naturally occurring allergens. Components found in rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, citrus oils, and various green materials often required careful adjustment to remain within permitted concentration limits. Rather than eliminating these ingredients entirely, perfumers typically modify their proportions and reinforce them with modern aroma chemicals that reproduce and amplify the desired characteristics. This allows the fragrance to maintain its overall identity while satisfying regulatory requirements.

Perhaps the most intriguing challenge involved Synarome's legendary Animalis base, one of the defining features of vintage Futur. Animalis was a complex specialty accord incorporating facets of civet, musk, ambergris, castoreum, and costus. Although the original version contributed much of Futur's famous sensuality and longevity, modern versions of Animalis and similar bases have been substantially reformulated over the years to eliminate restricted or unavailable ingredients. Contemporary substitutes rely upon advanced synthetic musks, ambergris molecules such as Ambroxan and Ambrofix, leather compounds, and animalic aroma chemicals that recreate the warmth and intimacy of the original while adhering to modern regulations.

As a result, the current version of Futur found on the Robert Piguet Parfums website remains recognizably linked to Jean Carles' original creation, yet it inevitably differs in texture and character. The fragrance retains its luminous green freshness, elegant floral heart, and sophisticated woody base, but many of the darker shadows, mossy depths, and animalic nuances have been softened. The modern version is generally cleaner, brighter, and more transparent, reflecting both contemporary tastes and regulatory realities. Where the original Futur possessed a rich, almost tactile sensuality created by natural animalic materials and generous amounts of oakmoss, the current formula offers a more polished and refined interpretation of those effects.

Despite these changes, the modern Futur succeeds in preserving the essence of the original concept. It remains a fragrance inspired by optimism, innovation, and the promise of tomorrow. Just as the 1960 original reflected the excitement of the Space Age and the dawn of a new technological era, the contemporary version continues to embody elegance, freshness, and forward-looking sophistication. Although some of the vintage formula's complexity has inevitably been altered by modern regulations, Futur still stands as one of Robert Piguet's most distinctive creations—a fragrance that bridges the golden age of French perfumery with the realities of the twenty-first century.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the reformulation smell like? The modern formulation of Futur is classified as a floral green woody fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, green accord
• Middle notes: violet, jasmine, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, cedar

Scent Profile:

The modern formulation of Futur is a streamlined and contemporary interpretation of Jean Carles' visionary 1960 original. While the vintage perfume was an intricate tapestry of sparkling aldehydes, rare florals, aromatic herbs, mosses, resins, woods, and animalic materials, the modern version focuses on the fragrance's essential character: a luminous green floral bouquet resting upon a refined woody foundation. The result feels cleaner, brighter, and more transparent than its predecessor, yet it still captures the optimistic, spring-like freshness that made Futur such an evocative name. If the original Futur suggested a futuristic garden filled with sunlight, flowers, and hidden sensuality, the modern version feels like a minimalist interpretation of that vision, emphasizing clarity and elegance over complexity.

The fragrance opens with bergamot, one of perfumery's most beloved citrus ingredients. The finest bergamot comes from Calabria, the narrow coastal region of southern Italy where unique soil conditions and Mediterranean sunshine produce fruit of extraordinary aromatic richness. Calabrian bergamot possesses a brightness unlike ordinary citrus oils. It sparkles with notes of lemon, lime, sweet orange, green leaves, and delicate flowers all at once. Smelling it first-hand is like twisting the peel of a freshly harvested fruit beneath warm sunlight, releasing a fragrant mist that is simultaneously juicy, crisp, and sophisticated. In modern perfumery, natural bergamot is often enhanced with aroma chemicals such as linalyl acetate and linalool, compounds naturally present within the oil itself. These materials amplify the citrus freshness while improving consistency and longevity.

Neroli follows almost immediately, lending the fragrance an elegant floral glow. Distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, neroli possesses one of perfumery's most refined aromas. It smells airy and radiant, balancing fresh citrus blossoms with hints of honey, green stems, and soft white petals. Italian neroli is particularly prized because it tends to be lighter, brighter, and more transparent than North African varieties, which often possess deeper floral richness. In the modern Futur, neroli helps soften the sharpness of the bergamot while adding an impression of springtime blossoms carried on a gentle breeze.

The green accord that forms the heart of the opening is perhaps the most important element in defining Futur's personality. Unlike bergamot or neroli, a green accord is not extracted from a single plant but carefully constructed from numerous natural and synthetic materials. Some of the key molecules commonly used in green accords include cis-3-hexenol and cis-3-hexenyl acetate, compounds that smell uncannily like freshly cut grass, crushed leaves, green stems, and spring vegetation. These aroma chemicals are remarkable because they recreate aspects of nature that cannot be effectively distilled into essential oils. They provide the sensation of walking through a garden after rainfall, brushing against tender leaves and newly emerged shoots. In Futur, these materials create the vibrant freshness that gives the fragrance its youthful and optimistic character.

The floral heart is softer and more focused than that of the vintage formula, centering on violet, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. Violet is one of perfumery's most fascinating illusions because true violet flowers yield virtually no usable essential oil. The violet note must therefore be recreated through synthetic molecules known as ionones. These compounds smell powdery, velvety, slightly woody, and delicately floral. They evoke the scent of violet blossoms while adding a cool, silky texture to the fragrance. The synthetic recreation often possesses greater beauty and consistency than nature itself, creating a floral effect that is simultaneously romantic and modern. In Futur, the violet contributes softness and elegance, smoothing the transition between the green opening and woody base.

Jasmine brings richness and sensuality to the composition. Traditionally, the most prized jasmine originates from Grasse in southern France, where generations of expertise and ideal growing conditions have produced flowers of exceptional quality. Jasmine smells far more complex than many imagine. Beneath the floral sweetness lie facets of ripe fruit, honey, tea, warm skin, and subtle animalic nuances. Modern perfumers frequently reinforce natural jasmine absolute with aroma chemicals such as Hedione, a molecule famous for its luminous jasmine-like radiance. Hedione does not smell strongly floral on its own; rather, it amplifies surrounding notes and creates an airy, glowing quality that makes a fragrance seem larger and more diffusive. In Futur, this effect helps preserve the airy elegance that defines the fragrance.

Ylang-ylang introduces warmth and exoticism. Harvested primarily from tropical regions of the Indian Ocean, particularly the Comoros Islands and Madagascar, ylang-ylang possesses an unmistakable aroma of creamy flowers, banana blossoms, warm skin, and golden sunlight. It softens the cooler violet and jasmine notes, creating a floral heart that feels luxurious without becoming overly heavy. Its naturally rich floral sweetness also adds a subtle sensuality that hints at the deeper character of the vintage fragrance.

The base reveals a trio of classic woody materials: vetiver, patchouli, and cedar. Vetiver is distilled from the roots of a tropical grass and provides a cool, earthy elegance. Depending upon its origin, vetiver can vary dramatically. Haitian vetiver is often clean and grassy, while Javanese vetiver tends to be darker, smokier, and earthier. In Futur, vetiver contributes a refined dryness reminiscent of roots, fresh soil, and sun-warmed grasses. It grounds the brighter floral notes while maintaining the fragrance's overall sense of freshness.

Patchouli introduces depth and subtle mystery. The finest patchouli oils originate from Indonesia, where the tropical climate allows the leaves to develop exceptional aromatic complexity. Properly aged patchouli smells far removed from the harsh patchouli often associated with the 1960s and 1970s. It reveals facets of dark earth, cocoa, aged wood, dried leaves, and soft spice. In Futur, patchouli functions almost like a shadow beneath the composition, providing richness without overwhelming the floral and green notes.

Cedar completes the fragrance with clean, polished woodiness. Virginian cedar is often used for its dry aroma reminiscent of freshly sharpened pencils, cedar chests, and aromatic timber. Modern cedar accords are frequently enhanced by synthetic cedar molecules that strengthen their longevity and provide a smoother texture. The effect is elegant and reassuring, giving Futur a refined finish that lingers gracefully on the skin.

Compared to the original 1960 formula, the modern Futur is dramatically simplified. The vintage composition contained aldehydes, citrus oils, aromatic herbs, rose, orris, tamarisk, frankincense, pine needle, oakmoss, sandalwood, ambergris, castoreum, civet, musk, costus, and Synarome's famous Animalis base. These materials created a fragrance of remarkable depth, texture, and sensuality. The modern formula removes many of the darker, more challenging elements, particularly the mossy, resinous, and animalic materials that once formed its foundation.

Most notably absent are the powerful animalic ingredients that gave the original its hidden sensuality. Animalis, ambergris, civet, castoreum, musk, and costus created an intimate warmth that made the vintage perfume feel almost alive on the skin. Modern regulations, ingredient availability, ethical considerations, and contemporary consumer preferences have largely eliminated these materials from mainstream perfumery. As a result, the current Futur is cleaner, greener, and more transparent. Where the original juxtaposed sparkling freshness with a deeply seductive animalic undercurrent, the modern version emphasizes freshness, elegance, and wearability.

Yet despite these changes, the contemporary Futur remains faithful to the original concept. It still evokes renewal, optimism, and the promise of tomorrow. The green accord continues to suggest new growth, the florals retain their graceful femininity, and the woods provide quiet sophistication. While the original was a richly detailed oil painting filled with shadow, texture, and hidden nuances, the modern Futur resembles a luminous watercolor—lighter, brighter, and more transparent, yet still unmistakably inspired by the same vision of the future.

Bottles:

Futur arrives in the characteristic standard black flacon used for all Piguet fragrances as 50 and 100 ml EDP and 30 ml parfum.